Half Dome's north face in Yosemite — the route that inspired The North Face logo. One of America's best climbs, and a route I'd wanted to do for years. We chose a methodical approach, hauling heavy loads of about 60kg per person over three days rather than attempting the 23-pitch route in a single day.
Mason and I fixed three rope lengths on day one, establishing a bivouac beneath the face. Getting the gear up to the base was a workout in itself. 60kg packs with ropes, rack, food, water, sleeping gear — everything needed for three days on the wall.
Two other climbers were starting the same route that morning, planning to do it in a single day. They looked at our enormous packs with something between pity and amusement. They'd be moving fast and light while we hauled. Fair enough.
Day two started at 5:30 AM and we set about tackling 17 pitches to reach Sandy Ledge, roughly three-quarters up the face. The climbing was brilliant — sustained granite crack climbing with the Yosemite Valley spreading out below us as we gained height. Despite the other pair's confidence about moving faster without gear, we actually overtook them by midday. Turns out hauling builds a rhythm, and rhythm is everything on a big wall.
By evening it became clear the fast pair were in trouble. They'd planned for a single day and now they were facing a second day on the wall with no food and not enough water. No warm gear either. As darkness fell, one of them experienced a significant crisis at the belay — whimpering and crying for over an hour, hanging in the darkness with 600 metres of exposure below. The sound of genuine distress echoing off granite in the dark is something you don't forget.
They eventually found enough composure to keep moving and located a ledge to spend the night. We shared some of our food and water with them the next morning before they continued, severely dehydrated and sunburned but alive. A sobering reminder of the difference between ambition and preparation.
The Thank God Ledge — probably the most memorable pitch of climbing I've ever done. A narrow edge, maybe a foot wide in places, where you shuffle along sideways with a 600-metre drop straight below your feet. The name says everything. You spend the whole traverse thinking "thank God this ledge exists" because without it there'd be no way to continue. Massive exposure. Incredible position.
The final pitches went smoothly. We topped out with full packs, descended safely, and drove back to the valley floor feeling like we'd earned it. Good style, safe execution. The expedition approach proved its worth — the guys who rushed it nearly paid a much higher price.