A classic alpine north face with potential for skiing down the NE couloir or south side. Recent heavy snow in Chamonix raised concerns about route conditions, but several days without new snowfall made conditions favourable. Strong winds up to 90kph were forecast at altitude, with about 90% sunshine expected.
An empty telecabin ride to Grand Montets was followed by an hour of skiing and skinning to Argentiere hut, where other climbers shared wine and cheese. An early 6am departure involved skinning through deep snow with a crusty surface layer over poorly bonded fresh snow. Conditions that prompted the decision to ski the south side rather than attempt the north face descent.
The first ramps featured unconsolidated snow, making trail-breaking slow and difficult. Terrain steepened to about 70 degrees on solid ice, followed by roughly 150 metres of grade IV ice climbing through gullies filled with tremendous spindrift from high winds.
At about 500 metres up the route, a block of ice struck my climbing partner's arm during the ascent. Unable to continue due to severe pain, retreat became necessary. The descent proved challenging without fixed equipment and with him unable to use his left arm. We used available anchors, pegs, threads, boulders, and nuts, for the long, difficult descent to the base before darkness fell.
Despite missing the summit and planned ski descent, the route was in impressive condition and has huge potential for faster ascents once the snow consolidates further.