The Ober Gabelhorn is the most beautiful mountain of all the mountains in Valais. A distinctive pyramid shape that catches your eye from everywhere in the valley. If you asked a child to draw a mountain, they'd draw it like the Ober Gabelhorn.
We approached via the Grand Mountet hut, getting in the evening before and setting the alarm for an early start. Up at 2 AM and departing by 3 to maximise our climbing and skiing windows. The north face needs to be skied before the sun warms it, so timing is everything.
The ascent began around 4 AM on the north-facing slope. Crampons and ice axes on neve that had frozen solid overnight. We made steady progress, the gradient steepening as we climbed. By about 6 AM the sunrise was hitting the summit pyramid above us and the whole face lit up in orange and gold. One of those alpine moments that makes the early starts worthwhile.
The terrain got progressively steeper. 55-degree slopes where you're front-pointing with two axes and very aware that a slip means a long ride to the glacier below. The final 100 metres required rope work to navigate a cornice at the summit. About 30 metres of careful climbing to get over the lip and onto the top. We summited at 9 AM.
Now the interesting part. Looking down the face we'd just climbed with ice axes, knowing we were about to ski it. There's always a moment of apprehension when you clip into your bindings at the top of something steep. The rational part of your brain runs through the snow assessment and the escape routes. The other part just looks at the angle and says "really?"
The first turns were terrifying. 55 degrees with the full exposure of the north face falling away below. But confidence returns quickly once the edges bite and you feel the snow. It was quite crusty for July conditions — not ideal, but manageable. Steep turns, keeping the weight forward, trusting the skis. Each turn a small commitment that you hope the snow will honour.
Below the steepest section the angle eased and we could open up the turns a bit. The snow softened as we descended and by the lower slopes we were skiing properly, linking turns down toward the glacier.
We arrived back at the hut to find the guardian waiting for us with a grin. He'd been watching the whole descent through binoculars. Congratulations and handshakes over coffee.
An incredible couple of days climbing and skiing a classic line, on a beautiful mountain. Thanks to Riis for the company and the photos.